England's Music Festivals
Nick, had boasted
about England's Music Festivals many times. In 1997 he invited
me to England to experience them myself. We were to attend the
Glastonbury Music Festival and The Big Green Gathering, camping
for many days at each festival. Glastonbury dubbed -the field
of dreams- by the official program, sounded exotic and romantic.
I envisioned beautiful, gorgeous, and sunny summer days, walking
through fields of lush vegetation, sitting up on warm nights looking
at the stars and experiencing some great music.
However, things did not turn out
exactly the way I expected.
Dave Goodman, of the band New Age
Radio and Nick's partner at Mandala Records in England, hired
him to work at the festival. This year he was to drive some members
of Tenkoo Orchestra (a new age Japanese Band), The Space Goats
(a pixie English Festival Band), and their instruments to the
three-day festivals. We left London Thursday morning, June 26th,
heading for Glastonbury's Green Futures Field, in two vehicles.
Ruth, a sometime Space Goat, drove most of the people in her old
British Rail Bus. Nick drove an old VW Panel Van with some of
the people and all of the instruments. We had purchased the van,
"The Big Blue F*ck" for the trip. So named because upon
first seeing it, Nick yelled, "Not that big blue f*cking
thing."
Four passengers were sitting on
cushions in the middle of Big Blue: Yasuhiro and Kenji of Tenkoo,
Kenji's wife Terimi, and Krishmael of Space Goats. Members of
Tenkoo spoke English, but they had limited understanding. The
four of them played music while we traveled. It was wonderful
to watch the musicians communicate with each other without the
need of language.
Waiting
As the hours passed, Kris, Nick
and I talked about the possibility of our getting in without our
performance passes. Tenkoo had their passes, but tickets for the
Space Goats and us" roadies" had not arrived in time.
"We'll get in, don't worry,"
Nick said.
"The note from Dave (their
music producer and agent, Dave Goodman) should work. They should
accept that. Right?" Kris asked.
"For Christ's sake, stop worrying,
" Nick said.
As we idled behind the half-mile-long
line of trucks and vans waiting to get in the vendor and artist's
entrance, Nick asked Kenji, "Could I see your ticket?"
Kenji looked at us with surprise
and answered, "Hiroki have." Hiroki, their bandleader,
occupied a seat in the other bus, which we had passed hours ago.
Kris and I looked quickly at Nick,
but he didn't say anything.
As we inched closer to the entrance,
the stern-faced Scottish and Welsh festival officials, at each
checkpoint, exhorted us, "Do not proceed without tickets."
And others asked, "Do you all have your tickets?"
"I hope we get in," I
said to the hard-faced driver seated next to me. I looked back
at Kris and could tell that he shared my fears. My secret fear
was that everyone else would get in but me. Nick and the others,
at least, had verifiable positions; I merely sat as a passenger
in the van. "I guess I should have tried to buy a ticket,"
I mumbled to Nick.
Kenji, Yasuhiro, and Terimi didn't
participate in our conversation; they sat quietly waiting. I could
feel their eyes checking with each of us. They got it.
"This continual rain doesn't
help," Kris said.
"Why is this line going so slow?" I asked. It seemed
to me that we were just creeping along on the muddy roadway. It
took at least an hour to get near the front of the line.
Finally we arrived at the front
gatehouse needing to hand over those precious tickets. Kris and
I both were full of suggestions about what to say to the officials.
He made a move to get out of the van.
"Everyone stay in the van and keep
your mouths shut. I'll handle it," Nick said. "I can
get us in, don't worry about it. Just don't say anything and we'll
be fine." I've seen Nick negotiate these kinds of entries
before. I could tell he was confident of his ability, but was
afraid that one of us would say something stupid.
The Blag
So he rolled down
the window to talk to the man taking shelter inside the building,
a few feet away from us. "Our performance passes were not
delivered in time. We have a note from Dave Goodman indicating
that the people listed should be allowed in," He said.
Top I could tell by
the wearied look on the man's face that we were not the first
group to try to blag our way through the gates. "You can
call Sam, in charge at the Green Futures Field to check our story,"
Nick said.
The man sighed then said, "All
right, pull over off the road and wait." That was something
we did not want to do. We had seen other vehicles have problems
in that ooze off the beaten pathway. We were afraid that the van's
wheels would sink in the wet earth. But we had no choice.
Top So we waited.
Nick had slogged his way back to the ticket booth after about
30 minutes. "Sam's walking around," he explained to
our questioning faces as hoisted himself back up in the driver's
seat.
And we waited some more. "What
time?" I asked Terimi after more time had passed.
"Half three," she responded
in the English manner of indicating three-thirty. "One hour,"
she added.
I looked longingly at the outhouses
and then at the endless flow of water rolling down the van's windows.
Kris, on his dulcimer and Yasuhiro, on his sitar had launched
into a musical exploration of each other's talents. Nick proceeded
to clean the mud off his boots. Kenji picked up his flute.
"Half four," Terimi said
to Nick, prompting him to climb out and trudge back to the gatehouse.
When he returned and pulled open
the door, his face was a blank. "We're in," he said
as he started up Big Blue's engine. By this time the other bus
had shown up and we all headed for the Green Futures Field, our
home for the next five days.
Top
Welcome to Glastonbury!
The weather, wet and cloudy for the last few
days with no foreseeable stoppage in sight, proved to be a dream
bandit. My joy at getting in soured at the sight of the grounds
-more like a field of streams. Extremely slippery at spots, the
slushy roads caused Big Blue to spin her wheels. The mud-thickened
areas pulled her into suck holes. At the final climb up to the
field, she just bogged down and stopped. No way to succeed without
us pushing. Tenkoo had already gotten out and walked to the site,
so that left Kris and me. I donned my borrowed "wellies"
and we got her and Nick, the driver, up the hill unscathed. Kris
and I on the other hand received a shower from the muck freely
shooting up from the flap-less tires. When he saw us, Nick laughed
and exclaimed "Welcome to Glastonbury!" Top
Before the Crowds
Once settled, Nick
and I ventured out to investigate the festival. The rain had stopped
by now, but the quagmire was so thick and so deep that we couldn't
go anywhere without wellies. I had to buy a pair for 15
(about $22.00), as well as a raincoat, for another 10. We
worked our way past a few of the six music stages, still being
constructed. We watched while workers rigged up high wire trapezes
for one of the three circus areas. Later we climbed up to the
Sacred Space to see the stone circle. People were sitting on,
by, or hugging the stones in an attempt to achieve a spiritual
experience. It was incredibly peaceful. The sky, like silver studs
on black velvet, was beautiful.
It was the day before the start
of the festival, but most of the beer and wine tents were already
up and running. So we explored a field and then stopped at a bar,
before continuing on to our next destination. Hot cider was a
good foil to the chilly night air.
Festival Spirit
Top During
the next five days we explored most of the "city" (for
that weekend the 800 acres of the Glastonbury Festival Field is
the largest in the county of Somerset). It took a lot of work
to get around, so much that my thigh muscles ached, but they were
in great shape by the end of it. My wellies were a little too
big for me so I had to pull hard to get my foot, with boot intact,
out of the mire to continue forward. A couple of times I got stuck
and fell on my hands into the muck. Other places were seas of
mud, very slippery. Nick slid and nearly fell about ten times,
but he was proud that he never went down. Watching mud spills
or close calls was one the favorite pastimes of the festival participants.
Top On
setting off to see Ray Davies at the Pyramid Stage that Saturday
afternoon, we figured that we had plenty of time to make the 4:00
show. After forty-five minutes of slogging through mud up to our
knees we arrived to hear him graciously say, "Thank you very
much."
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Music was everywhere .We saw music at the
main stages - Sting and Van Morrison at the Pyramid Stage, Joolz
Holland at the Cabaret Tent, and Steve Harley and Cockney Rebel
at the Acoustic Stage. We also saw lots of bands performing at
the smaller stages positioned around the many different theme
fields. Unfortunately we went to sleep each night with the sound
of a drum machine from the Dance Tent pounding until 4 or 5 in
the morning. We walked through their tent one night just to see
what all the fuss was about. It was a mass of people raving, so
we quickly extricated ourselves. Almost as hard as maneuvering
through the mud!
Of course we saw our own bands in
the Green Fields-The Space Goats, Tenkoo, and Dave and Kathy's
New-Age Radio. The Green Fields are powered with alternative energy
sources, solar screens, or pedal power. Nick, Dave, Kathy, and
I all pedaled to spark the sound for Dr. Space Toad and Captain
Sensible at the Rainbow Dragon Stage.
Top Besides the
numerous performers, there were acres of artisans eager to teach
or ply their art. Nick learned how to make and then to play a
didgeridoo (Australian Aboriginal instrument). I got a Shiatsu
Massage. We watched a man make an axe and then chop wood with
it. There was a camping area dedicated to tipi structures and
many teachers burning to furnish you with the necessary skills
to build one.
One chilly evening we stopped at
the film tent, spread out our garbage bags on the soggy ground
and watched "Withnail And I," a 1987 English Film. Those
garbage bags they kept handing out for garbage came in very handy.
They mainly got used as raincoats; or they were taped around feet
to act as boots, or for ground cover as we used them. I never
did make it to one of the three indoor acting theatres, but we
did see some great street performances. Another night we saw some
impressive trapeze acts.
Festival Provisions
Top The
food and the beer were amazing, considering the difficulties the
vendors had with the wet and primitive conditions. I love England's
bitter and most of the beer tents managed to pull a pretty decent
plastic glass of the stuff. There was a variety of truly good
grub coming out of the dozens of restaurants, including many ethnic
and vegetarian choices. Breakfast joints would offer the traditional
English Breakfast - fried eggs, sausage and/or bacon, toast, fried
tomatoes, baked beans. Vegetarians were able to get this with
vegetarian sausage or sautéed mushrooms.
You could buy "anything you
want" from the vendors. Also, wandering bootleg salespeople
hawked, "hash cakes, shrooms, Special Brew, backy, wellies!"
Dark alley operations in campers and buses provided some delicious
homemade beer and wine.
There were even elaborate shower
facilities. I just couldn't talk myself into getting out of my
mud thickened clothes, stripping down in the cold air and partaking
of a solar shower, only to get muddy again. It was nice to know
that they were there though. There were also plenty of toilets.
The theme fields had fashioned some pretty creative "green"
outhouses.
Top
England's Festival Circuit
Over the
course of those five days, Nick and some of the Space Goats educated
me about England's festival circuit. "Many vendors and artists
spend the entire summer roaming from festival to festival,"
one of the Space Goats said.
"Yeah they can set up camp,
a week before the event. Then spend another week, or more, before
departing for the next site," another one added.
In our walks around I noticed that
people constructed elaborate homes, some of them planted flowers,
or created sculptures made of found objects to adorn the outside
of their dwellings. I realized that to simply call them music
festivals denies the existence of a whole village filled with
events and services dedicated to these weekends.
"This place really amazes me,"
I said to Nick one morning. I was having one of the best times
of my life. Most of the more than 100,000 other guests also appeared
to be really enjoying themselves. "Let me read what Andrew
Male says in the Programme about Glastonbury," I said. "It's
still the only festival in the world that's more important than
any of the bands who play, no matter how big they are."
He responded, "Yeah, remember
what I said when we heard that Dylan had pulled out, 'It doesn't
matter.' I don't just come here for the music."
I asked Nick about the Big Green
Gathering, "Is it just as good?"
"You're going to really like
it. It's a lot smaller and newer, but it's nicer, more laid back.
There are many impromptu jam sessions, as well as the scheduled
performances. All the food is vegetarian. No bars though; you
have to bring in your own alcohol."
He further explained, "The
Green Futures Field is like a miniature Big Green Gathering. At
the Big Green, only alternative methods of power can be used on
the entire festival site."
On the Way to the Big Green
That next month
we were on our way to the Big Green Gathering. Setting off from
London for the Salisbury Plain, we embarked in good spirits. This
time we had only three passengers: Matt and Krishmael of Space
Goats, and Tom the tabla player. Big Blue's rear compartment,
separated by a horizontal wooden house door, contained the instruments
- a lap dulcimer, a harp, a lute, a didgeridoo, Indian Tablas,
a mandolin, a sitar, our bags, beer, wine, and a large geodesic
dome tent.
Resting casually on Big Blue's dashboard,
our tickets guaranteed our easy entry.
Big Blue
Big Blue was riding rough - overheating
and missing. After we had traveled the motorway for an hour we
knew that things weren't right. Finally, we pulled over at a layby
to let her cool and get a cup of tea at the stand located off
the road. We piled out of the van.
I walked around to the other side,
looking in through driver's open door. The engine, seated between
the two front seats, was smoking! I yelled, "We're on fire."
The shocked faces of the others slowly came alive. Then we all
ran to the back of the van and quickly liberated everything we
could.
Having saved the instruments and
backpacks, we then started pulling out the dome tent poles. We
managed to get about half of the 65 poles out before the flames
started pushing us back. With Matt leading, he and Nick went back
in to rescue the canvas dome. After they retrieved the tent, all
bystanders pleaded with them to stop because it was getting too
dangerous. Hearing a loud pop, I suddenly recalled the new air
mattress that Nick and I had found abandoned in the Glastonbury
mud.
Now separated by Big Blue, burning
in the middle of the layby, the five of us watched her die. Nick,
Tom, and Matt positioned at her front; Kris and I held vigil at
the back. As her electrical system expired, Nick and the others
observed the lights flash on and off, as if to say good-bye.
The fire had exhausted itself by
the time the fire truck finally arrived. The fire fighters hosed
her down and did their firemanly duties.
Matt said to Nick, "Man, I
can't believe how cool you are about this. Most people would be
yelling and screaming if their van just burned up."
Nick just replied, "Hey, the
most important thing is the people. Everyone's okay and we saved
the instruments." Then he suddenly looked over at me grimaced
and said, "Where were our tickets?"
"On the dashboard," I
replied.
"Well, they're gone now."
Top Nick
and I obtained a ride from a lorry driver into town and rented
another van to get everyone to the festival. Scheduled to play
that late afternoon, Kris, Matt and Tom were anxious that we get
them there.
Blag #2
At the gate to
The Big Green, another weary official listened to our plight about
a lack of tickets. At least this time, we looked the part - everyone
covered in black soot, the back of the van filled with charred
poles. Sam, again, verified our eligibility for entrance.
We had made it there. They made
their gig. We were there watching Matt, Kris, and Tom all clean
from a solar shower, playing their beautiful music. After a few
songs, Matt looked in our direction and announced to the audience,
"A funny thing happened to us on the way to the festival..."
Details
Glastonbury Music
Festival is held at the end of June. The festival is held on Michael
and Jean Eavins' Worthy Farm in Shepton Mallet. Out of London
you would take the M3 to the A303, proceeding on to the A371,
then follow the vehicles. This year the event will be held on
June 28th through the 30th. Tickets have been sold out for months.
The Big Green Gathering is usually
held at the last weekend of July on the Salisbury Plain. Again
you would take the M3 from London to the A303 then follow the
signs to the site. I'm not sure this event is happening this year;
I couldn't find and information.
The articles and websites were created by Jacquelyn Wells
of Way With Words.biz 2002
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